November 27th
We set out for the animal park a little after 7:30 this morning on the Hondas.
My driver’s name Michael. What a sight we must have been, a procession of 7
Hondas each carrying a “white man” as they call all white people regardless of
gender. We stopped in Kamakwie so the drivers could pick up something to eat
since they would be waiting there at the park to bring us back when we were
finished. It was an awesome ride through a beautiful landscape. Fields, forests,
through a valley, the variety in the short distance was pretty impressive. We
passed through many villages where of course all the children had to say hello
to us as we passed. I did so much waving I felt like I was in a parade or
something. The road was pretty rough but on a Honda can dodge the worst and we
made pretty good time I’d say. At one point we had to get on this ferry that was
attached to a steel cable running across the river. The people then pull the
ferry across the river by hand. It’s a pretty sizable river so it takes a couple
of minutes to cross. While we were there we saw a man who was pretty much
catatonic and the people told us he couldn’t speak. They said he used be fine
but got sick and stopped speaking. Tom went to see him and asked how long ago he
got sick, they said a year. A YEAR? If I stopped talking altogether for a day
people would be rushing me to an emergency room. Waiting a year to seek
treatment for someone so sick is just crazy. Tom saw him at the hospital today
after we got back and thinks he might have a thyroid problem. He ordered some
tests and should have them in the morning. If that’s the problem and they have
what they need to treat it Tom said there won’t be any lasting damage beyond
losing one year of his life. From there it was about a third of the way left to
get to the park. The roads got even worse on the other side of the ferry so it
was a bit of a rougher ride but I still enjoyed it. We arrived at the park at
about 9:30. To see the hippos you have to take a canoe. Since there was only one
canoe and 6 people who were going out we had to go in shifts. Melanie, Meghan
and Randy went first. It’s about a two hour trip on the river to get there, see
them, and come back. So while they were off on the river Rebecca, Emma, Tom and
I did a little exploring, though we didn’t find very much, the available paths
were limited. After about an hour and or so we decided to have lunch and while
we were eating the other group returned and Rebecca, Emma and I set out on our
little river adventure. The person sitting in the front (aka me) had to help row
the canoe down the river to where we would see the hippos. It was just over a 45
minute journey to the spot and along the way we saw some beautiful trees, the
water was so calm that the shoreline and sky were reflected clearly in the
water. The river was very wide, about a football field at least. Since I was
rowing and Rebecca camera had died she was using my camera to take pictures, I
haven’t really had a chance to look at them to see what she took but I’m sure
there are some good ones. We got to see some monkeys up in the trees and an
iguana in a tree along the shore. It was so beautiful. We finally reached the
spot where you can find the hippos and watched them for a little bit. All you
can see is their head but it was still cool to be seeing hippos in their natural
habitat. We watched them for a bit, when they would surface and take a breath,
making a really loud sound. It was so cool, but we couldn’t get any closer as
they are quite dangerous. They kill more people every year than any other animal
in at least West Africa but I think Karen and Tom said all of Africa. They are
herbivores but if they feel threatened they can be quite vicious. But we were
careful and respected their space so we were quite safe. After watching them for
a little while we turned around and headed back upstream (not really much harder
because the river is quite still) getting back after about an hour and 45
minutes. On the way back we saw some more monkeys, even six in one tree, it was
really cool. My arms were tired from paddling all the way down and back;
considering I’ve not been in a canoe in years I’m not too surprised. Also, I had
a bunch of insect bites, from the black flies that live near the rivers. They
can carry a parasite that causes Onchocirciasis (sp?) which is called
river-blindness because left untreated it can spread to the eyes, though it
doesn’t seem quite desirable even without that little tidbit as it pretty much
spreads everywhere else and itches like crazy. So not taking any chances, when
we got back all of us took a dose of the medication that kills it off. After we
got back it was time to leave, and we kind of just dispersed, there wasn’t
really any order to it and we didn’t stick together. My driver almost got us
lost when passing through the first village outside the park but he got back on
the right track. We all met back at the ferry that takes you back across since
it was on the other side when we got there. As we were crossing one of the
drivers had fix a flat tire. Rather than replacing it (they had no spares) the
guy took a piece of rubber and wrapped it tightly around a piece of tire
including the hole to isolate it, put the tube back in and re-inflated it. After
crossing the ferry my driver and I were the last ones to get going. Michael is a
very safe but fast driver. On flat open stretches he really got going and we
passed a few of the other drivers but he went slow and carefully over bad spots
which is where he often lost ground (not that I’m complaining mind you) but I
think I picked the right driver for me, safe but speedy. Beneath all the fears
and worrying I really do enjoy a good thrill and he did it safely. It was a
great ride and the wind felt so good since it was really hot today. Though our
drivers were all wearing winter coats and weren’t even sweating, they are crazy
and think it is cold even when I’m still sweating. Anyway, we made it back safe
and sound at about 3 and after some picture taking all went our separate ways to
get cleaned up, we were all really dirty from the drive since the soil is very
dry and therefore a lot of dust was kicked up by the bikes. Anyway, after we got
cleaned up we wandered down to the market where I got a flashlight since the one
I brought is just too much effort. You have to it pretty much constantly to get
a good beam out of it. I thought a flashlight you wind would be good, but it’s
pretty rubbish sadly. The women got some fabric and they picked up some things
they had a tailor make for them. A few purse like bags and a skirt. By time we
got to the house it was dinner time and after dinner we chatted for a bit but
then everyone dispersed and Karen and I played card games. It was nice to just
relax. Anyway, that’s about all for today (you’re all probably thinking
“finally”) this was a pretty long one with just a brief recounting of the animal
park. It was an awesome experience and I’m really glad I got to go. It was so
cool. Off to bed now though, night all!

Blessings from Kamakwie,
Ryan Brooks